Saturday 23 October 2010

Rugged Coastal Adventures

This blog may be riddled with spelling typos - I'm only just getting the feeling back in my fingers. For the last week I have been clambering about the cliffs of the Moray Firth in the snow, hail and rain, while being buffeted by 70mph winds. I've been up at dawn hoping for just a wee hint of colour in the sky and stumbling about in the dark trying to get slow exposures shots. Oscar the dog has learned to climb (he's sickeningly good at it) and he's repeatedly helped me by sticking his furry wee head into the corners of otherwise well composed shots. On the plus side, when he leans against me it keeps my legs a wee bit warmer and, being a handsome wee brute, he's great for starting conversations with the locals to get a few wee location tips!
Always on the look out for a cracking location and a bargain, the family MacD was dragged (only partially willingly) to the ancient wee fishing village of Portknockie for the school break. "Is there anything to do in Banffshire in October" they innocently enquired. "Of course!" I replied enthusiastically. After all I thought (but didn't voice) there is Bow Fiddle Rock (an incredible sea arch), there's wind and big waves, there are freezing cold beaches with interesting sand patterns, there would be ramshackle tumble down buildings and rusty wee boats and maybe even some weather beaten fishermen mending nets and lifeboats fighting their way out the harbour! But instead I said "There are endless deserted beaches, we might see dolphins, there are seals, all the swing parks will be quiet, the comfort food is brilliant up there (mmmmm Cullen skink and butteries) and the fish and chips will be superb. Anyway I've found this cheap wee self catering cottage at a last minute bargain price." The words "cheap" or "bargain" always appeal to Mrs MacD and that was that, off we went. Kids crammed into the back of the car with the tripod at their feet, camera bag being carefully cradled in the lap of the well instructed and incredibly tolerant Mrs MacD, the dog in the boot and the cases in the new rooftop luggage box (or "wing" as it was shortly to become known). Just a quick wee jaunt up the A9, four and a half hours of 3 kids under 12 "playing in the back" and a sing along to the one CD we'd remembered to take. I have now learned that 6 year olds never tire of hearing the same CD over and over and over again. And again and again.
But after fixing our usual holiday flat tyre, and despite starting off late and having a wee break at Carrbridge to stretch our legs - mine were stretched in the direction of the bridge itself for a quick few snaps of a wedding party who were trying to walk over it in high heels (madness) - we made it to Portknockie in good time just as darkness fell and we settled into our wee cottage. I grabbed the dog and daughter number 1 for a quick walk around the area and made a beeline for Bow Fiddle Rock - which we would have oohed and ahhed at had we been able to see it in the dark. But the route and time to the rock were noted and the dog was walked so it was straight back to the cottage for pizza (yum).
I had great intentions of dawn starts every day but was knackered and decided to lie in the first day. And would have too if Mrs MacD hadn't woken early, muttered what a beautiful pink sky it was and then rolled over back to sleep again. A beautiful pink sky, eh? What if it rains for the rest of the week (remember Glencoe this time last year)? Damn. Up I got, ran down the stairs and walked briskly to Bow Fiddle. I was there by 7:30am and snapping away. It really is superb. By the time the pink had left the sky and the rock was just rock coloured again, it was 9am and I was able to get back to the house in time for coffee and breakfast, with my shots in the can. Brilliant. And just as well. The next few days saw me ducking in and out of the house every time the weather stopped landing with force upon the town, and trying to get better shots of the rock and the harbour area. I never did get really good light for Bow Fiddle again, so another valuable lesson learned - never squander the light!

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