Thursday 6 August 2009

1st August - East lothian and the Borders - St Abbs Head

My 3rd walk in 8 days - it was my turn to come up with a location for a walk so I was delighted when TB said she had never been to St Abbs before. I'd been to the quaint little town but never on the cliff tops. A quick bout of Googling helped me plan a route and get an appreciation for some of the rugged cliffs that could be seen along the way. The route looked fairly flat (which proves just how poor I am at map reading!!!) so I gathered up the big beastie - the 40D plus 3 of my 5 lenses. I was sensible enough to know my limitations however and left the tripod at home.

On this occassion we decided to leave TB's dogs behind - neither of us fancying an exuberant dog louping about at the edge of sea cliffs... In the end I think they would have been fine as the cliff paths are a few meters from the edges and there were only sheep around in one field. We live and learn.

Arriving at St Abbs Nature Reserve car park the first "sight" to see is the coffeee and bun shop, selling the much sought after by Mr MacD, cream teas!! As ever though, I had set off far too late and there was no time to partake - I will have a cream tea on one of these walks, I will!

A gentle slope on a nature trail path along the main road takes you to the start of the walk. From the path I could already to see what was ahead of us - jagged stacks of rocks, sunshine and hay bales. I had a good feeling about this. Walking away from the road and towards the cliffs we wlaked alongside a high wall, simply covered in yellow lichens and dotted with the less serious walkers pointing their point and shoot cameras at the lichen. When you see "non-photographers" grabbing abstract patterns in lichen it is a very promising sign. At the end of the wall there is a breath taking drop to the see and a rocky bay surrounded by cliffs. My thoughts were already turning to dusk, an ND8 filter, 3o second exposures and blurred waves washing across the crescent of boulders framed by the cliffs. There is definately a decent image to be made there, but today wasn't the day, no tripod and the sun too bright and contrasty. So off we set on the "flat walk" up a 300 yards of fairly steep slope to the top of the cliffs and right up close to the jagged rocky stacks and a fantastic view down to picturesque St Abbs. I left the picture taking for this till later counting on a lower sun and less brightness.

Having gained the top it was straight back down again to a rocky bay with some great boulders. With bags of time before the light went we had a wee scramble about omn the rocks before heading onwards - straight back up a hill. sensing that perhaps I had gotten the degree of difficulty of this walk a tad wrong, we passed on climbing up a 50 degree slope to a rocky ridge and wandered round it, along the flat path through the rural countryside. Finally we came to another climb up to the very high cliff tops and what a view greeted us - coves and inlets back to st Abbs, low cliffs past them, sea as far as we could see and yet another lighthouse, my second in 3 days. A slope up to the lighthouse along the cliff tops had us "bravely" trying to out do the other by edging closer to the sheer drop. I think I won by about 50 cm with my 2 meters to the edge but TB certainly looked more confident and may have done better if I had actually told her we were competing. I am told by my friends that I am pathetically competitive.

I snapped a few of the lighthouse and the cliffs but felt that nothing had really grabbed me yet. But as we rounded the headland to Pettico Wyck suddenly we were faced by bird covered giant seas stacks, slate gray in a bright blue see. Time for the wide angle lens, careful not to photograph my feet, TB was able to have a seat and enjoy the view while I scrambled all over the cliff tops looking for a good angle.

Onwards and upwards - actually downwards on this occassion we followed the road down and came across an amazing vista of cliff after cliff receding away into the distance. Now this was the view that needed some attention. Various lenses were tried and some passable images snapped. Unfortunately there were some vehicles on the road ahead spoiling the shot, but no matter, that's what the cloning stamping and patch tools are for! As we moved towards the firts of these cliffs it became obvious what the vehicles were - police vans, ambulances and cars. The area is popular with divers and it seemed that one had gotten in trouble. I had a wrestle with my conscience, attach the zoom lens and get some photo journalism practice or be a human being and keep my nose out. In the end I decided I did NOT want to photograph someones misery but I WAS nosey enough to ant to see what was going on. It turned out to be a chap with a broken ankle, which in the grand scheme of things is not that bad. Theer have been some diving fatalities there over the years. I did nearly get my camera out when the police van made a mess of negotiating the sigle track road and kept hitting the fence posts along the side, but my copmpassion for the police officer made me stop myself from giving him extra pressure. His partner did however find it all very amusing. Accident drama aside, this looks to be a very promising location for a sunset, with parking nearby, all be it 2 hours from my house. I think I will be back there soon.

After satisfying our curiosity, TB and I headed down the hill and along the loch my map had said we would pass. I assume we did pass it but only flashing glimpses between the vegetation confirmed that. To pay me back for my curiosity I managed to fall over on the wet slippy muddy path here, but my pride bounced me back on my feet before TB noticed... or so I thought "...and he's down", she called without even looking round. My main worry was whether my camera was OK or not, but by simply breaking it's fall with myself, it was.

At the far end of the loch there is a small path back up the other side - we darted in here for rest and a view over the loch. TB being a sensible sort had brought some fruit to eat while scoping out future walks in her walking guide book. I busied myself with pictures of a boat house, interesting fences and reflections and some bull rushes. Hmmmm... a classic example of practicallity versus artistic creativity :-) A rested TB and a hungry MacD set off again and within 50 yards found ourselves on the outward path again and walking back to St Abbs, snapping the view over the rock stacks on the way (see above).

A quick pint and a bite to eat later in St Abbs and we were heading off home in the car. along the way however I remembered how picturesque Cove is, so we popped in for the 30 minute walk through the ancient tunnel and around the old harbour. I'd been togging here before and I'm sure there's a great image of the natural void in the giant rock to be had - I just can't get the right angle!!! It could be cool on a stormy day, perhaps I'll venture down that way again in the winter. Incidentally, here is another shot, from Cove last year - I liked this image and having shot it already last summer, I didn't drag, the by now getting weary, TB round the headland to reprise it (I of course was fresh as a daisy - ahem....).
All in all, I felt pretty good at the end of this walking day, my previous hikes had prepared me to be able to tackle the hills without sore legs the next day and it had been an interesting walk with some great photo opportunities on the day, and for the future. A good one to finish with, with Mrs MacD and the mini MacD's returning this week I shall probably not get out and about again for these all day walks for a while, but this week has opened my eyes to the potential of some areas that were previously not far enough away to justify a holiday to, and too far away to drive out to for an hour or or so. But I can see more day long excursions in my future.

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